We lost our love for Venice the last time we visited in September of 2011. Not only were the temperatures in the 90's, the sun blazing and the humidity high, there were nine cruise ships docked when we arrived making it ten. The throngs of humanity shuffling along the main passageways carried one along like floatsam in a stream. The Accademia Bridge was so covered with people it looked like ants clamoring over a pile of sugar. We fled across the island to a little square we knew and lamented the Venice we used to know over a refreshing Spritz.
The next three days didn't bring us much relief as we noticed a large number of shop keepers were no longer Italian, the prices in places we used to love had skyrocketed, and the throngs seemed endless. We felt sorry for the first time visitor who would no longer see the charms of this magnificent, historic city, but crowds of people pushing and shoving to get their pictures taken in front of a historic place they would never enter because the lines we so long.
So for three years we rued going back to be disappointed again. As you know from my first post, our trip to the hotel, our room with a view and dinner the first night, had considerably softened our hardened hearts. I ventured out in the morning half expecting to be jilted again, but found that at least on this day I could find the Venice we love
The Plaza San Marco was busy, but not unreasonably so. It was relatively empty when I first arrived and on my way back to the hotel, more tour groups were being lead by umbrella waving guides, but one could actually gaze onto the plaza and see it, not thousands of people.
The Cafe Florian was it's usual peaceful, historic, beautiful place, but one would have to think that Bryon, Shelly and Keats, would blanch at the price of a cappuccino and pastry. On the other hand, how does one put a price on sitting where so many historic figures sat and enjoyed a similar experience? Although 27 Euros does seem a little excessive.
The entire square just looked really good in the bright fall sunlight.
Venice has so much to offer everyone who visits no matter what they are looking for, be it art, architecture, music, history, food, romance or intrigue, that one can lose sight of the everyday vignettes that go on dispite the tourist crush. Here are a few of everyday Venetians going on with their lives in the midst of this historical curiosity.
The next three days didn't bring us much relief as we noticed a large number of shop keepers were no longer Italian, the prices in places we used to love had skyrocketed, and the throngs seemed endless. We felt sorry for the first time visitor who would no longer see the charms of this magnificent, historic city, but crowds of people pushing and shoving to get their pictures taken in front of a historic place they would never enter because the lines we so long.
So for three years we rued going back to be disappointed again. As you know from my first post, our trip to the hotel, our room with a view and dinner the first night, had considerably softened our hardened hearts. I ventured out in the morning half expecting to be jilted again, but found that at least on this day I could find the Venice we love
The Plaza San Marco was busy, but not unreasonably so. It was relatively empty when I first arrived and on my way back to the hotel, more tour groups were being lead by umbrella waving guides, but one could actually gaze onto the plaza and see it, not thousands of people.
They have been doing major restoration work on the Cathedral and it's mosaics look beautiful.
The entire square just looked really good in the bright fall sunlight.
Venice has so much to offer everyone who visits no matter what they are looking for, be it art, architecture, music, history, food, romance or intrigue, that one can lose sight of the everyday vignettes that go on dispite the tourist crush. Here are a few of everyday Venetians going on with their lives in the midst of this historical curiosity.
Then there are the fantastic scenes one seems to run into around every corner. Venice is any photographers dream.
Before we left the hotel, we conferred with the Concierge about two nearby restaurants we had frequented on other trips. He said that sadly one had gone "international" and at the other the owner had died, but that his son ran another that was truly Venetian, off the tourist path, and in a quaint little square. Even with a map, our challenge was to find it.
With me leading the way, we ended up in front of the Opera House which was no where near the restaurant. I was ready to end the quest and eat at one of the fine places nearby, but Kathy took the map, studied it, and after a ten minute walk lead us right into the square and the restaurant. Thank goodness she did because it was white truffle season and when the waiter ceremoniously held a napkin under our noses and with a flourish opened it to give us a glimpse, and more importantly a whiff, of the giant white truffle hidden within, we were hooked. Dam the price, it was to be linguini with shaved white truffles for lunch, with beef carpaccio with shaved black truffles for an antipasti, washed down with a beautiful Sangiovese. Life is good. Venice we love you.
Sadly, after lunch, we had to return to the hotel, collect our things, board our water taxi and embark the ship for our cruise. Venice had recaptured our hearts, at least for thirty-six hours and we were a very happy couple as we headed toward the ship.
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