Madagascar-Not your Disney movie version

How to portray the places we visit rarely presents a problem because the themes seem to develop naturally by themselves. It's true they are never the complete picture, especially hopping around like one does on a cruise, but Madagascar presented a problem. We did not visit the main island, but the largest tourist spot, an island called Nosy Be, a scant four miles off of the main island. The main island is in turmoil and while some of it has crossed over to Nosy Be, tourism is down fifty percent, we clearly didn't see the real picture of what is transpiring in the country. So is the picture presented this:

A beautiful island even on a cloudy, overcast day, with more endemic species than any other place in the world. Where 90% of it's wildlife and 80% of it's plant life is found no where else in the world.

Or this, people living in huts with no running water, electricity or sanitary facilities. Seventy percent of the people live on less than one dollar per day and average annual income is $430.










The fact is that while both pictures are accurate, the country itself is in severe decline and has been since 2009, when a coup ousted the democratically elected government and just the day after we left, the coup's leader and current President of the country's hand picked man was declared the winner in a Presidential election.

Prior to that time it followed a course that most East Africa countries have throughout their histories. First tribal rule, followed by colonialism, where the people were exploited by the colonial power. Then the struggle for and gaining of Independence and choosing of sides in the Cold War. Most chose Communism and went through terrible economic times which lead to overthrowing those governments and establishing some type of capitalism, most of which ended up corrupt leaders, who favored only a few connected  individuals and let the people languish. Madagascar from 2003 was on an upward path with a representative government. Today it's forrest are being stripped of their trees because the people use charcoal for cooking and make soup out of the bark. Also the exotic woods are being sold to support the government. It's animal species are endangered, including all of the 103 distinct lemur species found no nowhere else. I could go on and on, but just think this. If you are aware of how Haiti has declined, Madagascar is even worse and on a far larger scale.

Enough politics, as a tourist Nosy Be was a great place to visit. Even on a rainy, overcast day it was lush and vibrant.

The town itself, aptly called Hell Ville, actually named for a French Admiral, was what you'd expect in a poor country with a declining economy. The physical stores were few, but the street economy was flourishing and like all good tourist towns, they had a casino.

They were few cars and as one got out into the country you saw more and more people walking. The primary way of mass communicating in Madagascar is still the radio. One saw few satellite dishes or TV antennas.

While rural life undoubtedly was harsh, the people seemed upbeat and were friendly, although living conditions were pretty primitive.

As I mentioned Madagascar is quite famous for it's lemurs and at every stop someone had one they wanted you to pet, put on your shoulder and have a picture taken. At one stop, when I was admiring an old car, a guy put his pet lemur on Kathy's back much to her consternation, but other's delight. Note the blue earring. The lemur took from her ear when she pushed the thing off. She was not happy with me for not being there to protect her.

We did stop at one of the best hotels on the island. Not exactly the Ritz, but it will give you an idea of the facilities if you are intrigued enough to go.

In any of these trips it's really the people that make or break it. The people here were warm and friendly. Here are some pictures of the Malagasy's, a truly mixed race. You will notice the markings on some of the girls faces. These act as a sun screen, for smooth, unblemished skin is highly prized.

We left Madagascar soaked to the skin as a driving rainstorm struck when we were standing in a long line for the tender. It did not dampen our spirits for this country and its' people. Governments can change and hopefully the new one will collapse of it's own accord as it's policies are only bringing environmental ruin to the land and a far more difficult life for the people. It would be a shame if these little guys and others were pushed into extinction because of the greed of a few.