Messina was the first stop on our cruise after leaving Venice, but it was a Sunday and the town was closed up tighter than a drum. As our guide explained, Sunday was for family dinners, after Church, that lasted well into the evening. I have no doubt she wanted to get our short tour to Taormina over and get to her family. As she told us of the dishes her grandmother was making, I wished we could have gotten the tour over as well, as long as we could have joined her.
The distance between Messina and the most southern coast of Italy is surprisingly small and you can easily see across to the mainland. The harbor is pretty, but there is not much of note except a monument to the Virgin Mary, who is the Patron Saint of Mesina, because of a letter she wrote blessing the city that was delivered by passing travelers all the way from Ephesus. Our meager offerings paled in comparison.
Off we went through the picturesque countryside to the ancient town of Taormina. Mount Etna didn't cooperate on the trip and kept itself shrouded in clouds. It also didn't erupt, which was a positive.
Taormina has been around seemingly since recorded time began. Most, if not all, of the ancient seafaring peoples either occupied or traded with the Taorminans. The oldest structure in the town dates back from the third century BC and is a theatre built by the Greeks. It is in surprisingly good shape and is still used today although the bleacher seats don't look to comfortable.
It is a really pretty town with stunning vistas out to the mountains and the sea. The streets are narrow and lined with interesting shops, restaurants and churches. On this Sunday, however, they were also densely packed with tourists and local families enjoying the beautiful day. We did manage to find some space for photography and had, arguably, the best cannoli we have ever had, but it was a chore getting around and not as pleasurable as it might have been on a Tuesday.
As we left, the local Vespa Club arrived in mass and occupied the main square. It was fun seeing so many vintage Vespas.
As our ship left the harbor, we bid arrevadercia to Scilly and looked forward to arriving in Naples, where we would eschew the popular destinations such as Capri, Sorrento, Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast and explore Napoli on foot in search of the perfect pizza.
Naples is a not a city most people want to spend anymore time in than is necessary for a slice of their famous pizza. It is a vertical city that starts rising up within blocks of the scant flat in front of the sea. It is city of high rises, chaotic traffic, narrow, steeply rising streets, where little light reaches the pavement, and churches in varying states of repair are almost every where one looks. It can be intimidating, as it is dark and groups of men seem to be loitering on most street corners and in the many squares, but also illuminating as one observes the residents going about their daily chores oblivious to the tourist in their midst, happy to be living amongst friends and family. It is not a clean city, but not dirty either. Messy may best describe it. I found it very alive; Kathy not so much.
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Unfortunately, it is also a city under construction near the port. After negotiating numerous detours trying to get to the main shopping street, we gave up, hailed a cab and headed off for a pizza at Sobilla's which is heralded as one of Naples best. We arrived just as they were opening for lunch and fifteen minutes after we sat down, there was a long line out of the door.
It was very simple inside with tables crowded together. There was no wasted motion amongst the staff. Once you ordered, your drinks and pizza arrived in minutes. Piping hot, with the freshest ingredients one could imagine, and a crust unlike any in the States,( it had a yeasty taste) it is knife and fork pizza heaven. Everyone had their own pie from the thinnest young girls to the largest men and everyone ate with gusto. Once the last piece was eaten, your check arrived, you paid and you were out on the pavement. No deserts were on this menu nor anything else but pizza. It was wonderful.
Unfortunately all of the walking we had been doing was starting to take toll on Kathy's knee. So after the pizza we headed back to the ship where she boarded and I headed off to explore more of the streets of Naples. Three hours later I returned, exhausted, but happy that I got to explore many of the nooks and crannies of Napoli.
The next day we docked in Civitavecchia and instead of following the herd to Rome, we headed off into the Italian countryside to see the town of Orvieto and it's famous Duomo. This city has been in existence from before the Etruscans and sits high on a hill overlooking a verdant valley. It is closed to most traffic and that meant a mile walk up an upward slope over a cobblestone street. Picturesque yes, but not good for someone recovering from knee surgery. Kathy toughed it out and we were rewarded with some great scenery and then with a view of the magnificent Duomo as we walked into the square.
As magnificent as the front of the Church is, the sides are truly unique. Unfortunately no photography was allowed on the inside.
We had ample time to stroll around the town, but aside from photo ops, we didn't find the town too exciting. It really is all about the Duomo, which when one thinks of it, is such an incredible structure to have in such a small town. We finished off our day with a wonderful lunch is a small restaurant off of the square. The folks we sat with didn't drink wine, so Kathy and I had two bottles of a nice Orvieto all to ourselfs. The white went perfectly with her pasta and chicken and the red did the same with my rabbit and polenta. Sometimes Bacchus smiles on you.
Next it was back to the ship to head for France and to see our friends, but as you already know, weather kept us from doing that. We had a great time in Italy, but all of the walking was beginning to take its toll.
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